This is version 2 of the PSI circuit I made a loooong time ago. This one is printed instead of little wires connecting all the componets. Also, the LEDs will be separate from the pcb instead of attached to it. Have yet to test it.
Using my Dad's Shop Smith Mark V in drill press mode (sounds like something from the power rangers doesn't it, "Mark V Megazord Drill Press Mode!!! Hiyaa!"). I'm drilling holes into the outer ring of the Rockler Bearing so I can attach it to the top of R6's body. I used a 3/16th" drill bit. Be sure to put masking tape over the gap between the inner and outer rings to keep metal shavings from getting into the bearings, a MUST do.
The Rockler Bearing comes in various sizes and is available at McMaster-Carr. The size we use in the Club is the 17-3/8". Use the outer ring for the body and the inner ring for the head.
Here I'm checking the measurment all the way around the Rockler to ensure it's perfectly centered on the bottom of the head.
Used #10 1-1/4" wood screws to secure the inner ring to the head. Note that the inner ring already has six pre-drilled holes.
The Rockler Bearing sitting on the upside-down head. The white dots are little rubber standoff feet. Keep these in place.
You don't want to perimently attach both rings of the bearing so you can remove the head. Normaly the outer ring is attached to the body and the head is placed on top of it. But because of the way my wood head is designed, I have to reverse this setup. So I put four #10 1-1/2" metal bolts, secured with nuts, into the holes I drilled. These will be pointing down and will slide into four holes in the top of R6's body.
At last, the two are one. That slotted screw on the right loosens the inner ring. Best not to mess with it I discovered.
With the head attached to the body, I can now start choosing the electronic parts needed to bring R6 to life. I will need a motor for the head rotation, motors for the outer feet, batteries to power everything, all the Radio Control junk, and a sound system.
Here I've used a 1:1 scale cutout from the blueprints to trace the outline of the leg onto a 1/2" piece of plywood. This piece will be the master template I will use to cutout exact replicas to make both the left and right isde legs. I advise using a bandsaw to cut close to the line and then sanding it down to as close as you dare. It's ok if it's off by a millimeter or two. No one will notice. Just keep the edges straight.
My Dad will have the Mark V's bandsaw repaired today so next week I can cutout the template and if that goes well start cutting out all the pieces for the legs. See ya then.