Second Layer Started

Today I glued on the second layer to the neck area. Used the painter's tape to hold it on.

I also rough-cut the second layer piece for the face. Once I take the tape off, I'll test fit it. I made it 1/8" wider so it would line up with the neck more seamlessly.
Still working on how to measure and cut out the panels. I decided to cut out the panels as separate pieces so I can try to line them up on the head and space them out before I cut into the second face layer.

John

Glued Main Styrene Piece

Glue is dry and holding. After doing a test fit, I decided to go ahead and glue it on....before something goes wrong. As you can also see, I have more than enough room on top to install the fiber optics so I don't have to wait.

To glue it onto the head, I'm using the Jem-Tac I used before as I fear the Gorilla Glue might expand in undesirable ways.

Next will be adding the 2nd layers of Styrene. The trick here will be cutting out the panel details. Still working the thinking cap on that part.

John

Baby Steps to Finished Head

I'm getting there. Little by little, I'm getting there.

This is the piece of styrene that will wrap around the main "face" area of the head. In the second pic you see how I have glued a strip of styrene onto one edge. This is so I can bend the other end around and glue it together, making a cone shape with the tip missing.

Here's the "face" piece clamped down while it drys. Will be done by Sunday evening.

The glue I'm using for this is the Gorilla Glue. I'm using it because I need the extra strength it has. I also sanded the surface so the glue would have a rough surface to bond to. This is actually the my second attempt at this piece. The first time I used a different glue and it didn't hold very long. Remember when using Gorilla Glue that it expands as it drys, so make sure you place a lot of weight on it with a clamp or a heavy object so the joints don't separate as the glue expands.

While I've been messing around test fitting and such, I accidentally broke off one of the top support ribs. No easy way to fix it, though I might not need to. I'm going to try to fit the top styrene piece without it and see how it feels.

Speaking of messing around, I wanted to play a little bit by connecting the PSI's and approximately placing them and rotating the head. Of course I recorded it so you could join in the fun.

I recently started a new job which means I'll be busy learning it for the next few months, but it also means better money down the road, which means the ability to purchase everything else I need to finish R6-C9 faster. I hope.

Also coming up on Feb. 4th is another Mid-West Droid Builders Gathering. Note the date is one day before the Super Bowl and the Super Bowl just so happens to be in my home city of Indianapolis Indiana. Traffic is going to be like many choice words. If you know what I mean.

John

Styrene Test Fitting and Shoulder Hub Rings

Remember the aluminum strips I was using to cover the shoulder hubs? Yeah, well rub that idea. The aluminum was coming off and it was getting scratched and all messed up. So since I have all this styrene laying around, I thought I'd just use that.

Just paint and they're done.

For the head I made the top styrene piece to test fit.

I cut a circle and then cut a line across the radius. Then I lined everything up and marked where the overlap was. Cutout the overlap and you have a perfect fitting pointy hat.

John

Nearing the Finish Line

OK, boys and girls. We are getting close to being done building the head....finally!

I've been working on this for the past week so lots to show you. Not only do I have the electronics tray installed, but I've started adding the skin as well.

So here's the head with the electronics tray mounted. I even have the Logic LED Tubes mounted, just need the fiber optics now. I put connectors on the PSI wires so I can disconnect them if needed.

 

I soldered wiring to the PSI LED's and then used heat shrink to protect the solder joints. Once I have the skin done I will mount these and connect them to the PSI circuits.

I used a triangle hinge to mount the tray to the head and a single screw to hold it closed. With the main switch on the bottom, I shouldn't need to open it except to replace the batteries and/or do maintenance. Works pretty well I think.

This clamp is holding the neck piece of styrene while it drys at the seam. Had to cut two pieces before I got it right. Once this is dry, I'll test fit the main piece but I don't want to glue it on until I get the fiber optics finished. Trying to install the fiber optics after all the styrene pieces are on will be next to impossible. However, I've already cut the main piece and it looks like it will fit well. I'll know for sure once I get that clamp off.

Should have more to post soon.

John.

First Post of the New Year with Head Work

HAPPY NEW YEAR! 2012!

So I'm sitting at home playing my new favorite game, The Old Republic, all the while R6-C9 is sitting next to my desk, and I can't help but start thinking between killing Sith Lords and such how to solve various droid building puzzles, such as fitting all the electronics into R6's head, when I start having a brain storm and next thing I know I'm off to the shop to make one little wooden piece and drill a few holes and....well....in a span of 3 hours (give or take) I made an electronics mounting tray for the head. Check it out.

So I got thinking about how easy or difficult it will be to work on the head's insides so I thought a removable tray like the body has would be ideal. Thus I came up with this:

This is the piece I cut out from the bottom of the new head. I thought, "it will fit perfectly and there's plenty of room to mount all the techno stuff."

The Processor State Indicator (PSI) circuits.

That hole is for the main power switch for everything in the head. Typical me, I didn't think to drill the blasted hole until after I started mounted the PSI's. Silly me. Had to remove them so I could drill the hole. The wood is 3/4" thick so I had to drill a larger hole most of the way through so I could mount the switch.

This is for a set of sub-power switches so I can turn off each component if needed. Most of the time they'll stay on and I'll just use the main switch.

PIC LED Flasher circuits for the Logic Displays mounted.

Sub-Power Switches installed.

Everything wired. This setup will use two 9V batteries connected in parallel for double the amperage. All the black wires are tied together while the red wires connect the switches in parallel to the main switch. I'll make a schematic some day to help that mess of wires make sense.

Next up is connecting the tray to the head in an easy to remove fashion. Wish me luck.

John