Power is GO

This electronic schematic is what I'll be using to power the C6C PS2 controller receiver and the Speakers. First is the L7806 voltage regulator IC chip. This reduces the 12V battery to 6V for the C6C. Next is the LM317 voltage regulator IC chip. This, combined with a 220 Ohm and a 1.1K Ohm resistor, reduces the 12V battery to 7.5V for the speakers. The capacitors on both regulators job is to ensure the voltage level remains constant in case there are any momentary surges or voltage drops caused by another device. I have built this circuit on a prototyping breadboard and it works just like it should. So I have designed a PCB of this circuit and ordered it. Should arrive this Thursday.

While I was at it, I connected the voltage regulator to the rest of R6's wiring and also connected the battery for the first time to R6. I am happy to say all power testing was successful. Now I just need to finalize the placement of the switches and the battery.

Only 3 weeks left until Star Wars Celebration V. It's starting to become more and more clear now that I will not be able to have R6 standing in time for the convention due to not having access to the proper tools by then. Oh well. I tried. R6 will just have to be on display as is. But fear not. There's still the "Return Of The Jedi" 30th anniversary, Celebration VI. Let's make that the new goal for completing R6 (or mostly completing him).


John

Painting of Feet - Complete

Finally! The feet are completely painted. They turned out very nicely I think. I attached the detail pieces to the outer feet, but the inner foot's detail pieces can't go on by itself. For that I need two additional pieces plus other pieces to complete the feet. But for now I'm done with them.




Here's the skin pieces I also finished. These are done. I'll keep them in storage until I'm ready to assemble the skin onto the body. In the mean time, I still have other skin pieces to finish painting. The fun just doesn't stop :)

John

....and even more painting....

"Will this never end?" C-3PO, Ep4 ANH

Truer words were never said. The painting just keeps going.

Today I sanded smooth some of the skin panels for their final coat of paint. So they are DONE! YAY! I then painted the bottom half of the feet. Next time I'll paint the top half once more and then that should be it for the feet....I hope. Only 3 skin panels left to finish painting; one more coat, sand, then final coat. After all that I can start the remaining skin pieces and maybe the skins themselves.

The clock is ticking. Four weeks left until convention time. Sadly I didn't get as much done as I wanted, but in the least I'm going to have him standing....hopefully.

....and more painting....

Happy Fourth of July, celebrating Independence from high taxes....wait a minute.

Today I did some more painting. I lightly sanded the feet to make them smooth and then gave them a fresh coat. However, the spray can I was using was nearly empty so I don't think much paint got on them. Should have sprayed them once more with the fresh can. Guess I'll have to give one more coat next time. Besides the feet, I also painted the skin panels which makes 3 coats now I think. They look very smooth so I may stop here and move on to other pieces.

I've also been continuing work on the electrical system. Thus far I have the wiring to and from the power switches ready for the switches, but before I connect them I need to devise a mounting plate or something to put the switches into. Also I still need to devise a way to mount the battery.

John

I Have the Power

As of yesterday, R6-C9 now has his primary power source. And boy is it heavy. This thing could crush soda cans if I dropped it on some.
I started charging it last night which took about 4 - 4.5 hours on the 4amp charge setting (recommended by the charger's manual). Only down side to my charger is it has a cooling fan and it is LOUD! Am considering getting a different one...maybe.
One thing I should have done was order two batteries. You want at least two so you have a spare to use when you have to recharge the first one. I will order a 2nd one soon.

Now I just need to setup a mounting method inside the body for the battery. Of course I need the work shop to do this.

John

More painting, added fuse block

Did a lot this past week. Last Thursday I did some more painting in perfect conditions, yet I am still getting that sponge effect on a few pieces. I think I know what's going on now. I noticed the affected pieces looked perfect before I brought them inside to my air conditioned apartment. But once I brought them in, within minutes the sponge effect appeared. I think the sudden change in temperature is what's causing it. So the solution might be to leave them outside for a while longer. Hopefully that's all it is.

I've also made some progress with the electrical side of the build. I ordered and received a fuse block that can hold up to 6 ATC type blade fuses (automobile fuses). It also has a ground bar on it (on the right side). Click here for the website I bought it from.


In addition I have also finally ordered a battery to power everything. I got a 12V 18Ah SLA battery. For the charger, I brought a 2 amp car battery charger that's Gel-Cell compatible.
From the same place I ordered the battery from, Jamco.com, I also ordered parts to make a battery level meter so I know how much of a charge the battery has in it.

The next step for the electrical system is to install power switches. There will be one main power switch, an emergency power switch (hidden somewhere where I can get to it quickly if R6 goes bonkers), and a power switch for every device connected to the fuse block. Now I just have to decide where to put the switches.

John

Too Humid

Today the humidity was over 65% so I'm taking the day off from painting until the humidity is under 50% so the paint dries properly. Will try again Thursday (day off).

Nothing else to report.

John

Still painting

Yesterday I finished applying the 2nd coat to the foot shells, gave the final coat to the detail parts, and gave the 1st coat to the skin panels.


Recently however, I have noticed a problem when the paint drys. A sponging effect appears in spots on the feet and detail parts. I inquired about it at the Club's forum and they said it sounds like it's too humid outside when I paint. They suggested waiting until the humidity is less than 50%. So now I have to sand the parts smooth and paint them again in the correct conditions. Painting stinks.

In other news, I recently bought different kinds of blue paint for those blue areas on R6. I've primed a spare piece of metal and will paint small parts of it with each blue variation to compare them. I'm looking for a dark blue but not too dark. Hopefully one of these will be the blue I'm looking for.

One more thing. This week I also ordered the nuts and bolts needed to attach the foot shells to the wooden legs. But it turns out I didn't make the mounting holes in the legs big enough for the correct sized bolts. I can fix this but I need a drill press to do it properly and the Shop Smith Mark V is currently awaiting transport to it's new home, which looks like my brothers house for the time being. Hopefully I can use it before C5.

John

....painting....again....

This part of droid building is becoming a broken record (if you don't know what a record is, ask your parents or grandparents).

Today I started the 2nd coat of paint for the feet. For the detail parts, I lightly sanded them with 400 grit sandpaper to prep them for their final coat of paint (their 4th). The sanding tip I got form my father. The sanding only took a few minutes and then I painted them.

For the skin parts, I gave them their 2nd coat of primer. Next time will be their 1st coat of paint.

Since last Thursday, I started J-B Welding the skin panels together that need it. Once completed, I will have to sand down the splotches of J-B Weld. I used those fancy office paper clips to hold the pieces together and used a Q-Tip to wipe away any excess J-B Weld that was oozing out of the seems.


Once I'm done with the smaller pieces and the feet, I'll start priming and painting the outer skin layers.

John

Painting Feet and Skins

Today I gave a 2nd coat of paint to the top half of the feet and a 3rd coat to the detail parts. I also decided to start priming the skins. Left photo is before and right photo is after primer. The reason the parts are arranged differently in each photo is because it started to rain after I had gotten everything setup. Luckily I got everything back under cover in time. I chose these pieces because they don't need to be glued to other pieces before I can paint them. Also you'll notice I put painter's tape on the back of each piece. This is so no primer or paint gets onto the back of them. I'll put on a 2nd coat of primer and then paint them like the feet. Two of the pieces in the photos are going to be blue after I'm done priming them (the center vent bezel and the charging control access door (see Episode V)). I'll paint the main skin pieces once I have room and the other panels once I get them glued. Hope fully Sunday will be a good day to continue.

John.